French pendant with painted miniatures by Paillet Circa 1910

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Kenmerk
SB0228
Diameter
37 mm
Estimate
€ 15.000 - 25.000
Price sold
€ 17.950

White gold, diamond and pearl-set oval pendant by Verger Frères
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A French 18 carat white gold, diamond and pearl set oval form pendant watch with painted miniatures, circa 1910. Circular nickel lever movement, 18 jewels. Ivory painted dial in tones of blue and white, small central Arabic time indication, the surround with a classical woman and two putti. The reverse with a painted ivory panel signed Paillet depicting a classical scene, the border set with rose cut diamonds, further bordered by seed pearls and a second row of rose-cut diamonds. Movement signed made for Tiffany & Co by Verger, the inside of the bezel signed Verger and numbered, case stamped VF within a lozenge for Verger Frères. Comes with a similarly decorated pearl set 14 carat white gold chain.
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Length: 37 mm

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Signed: Verger Frères for Tiffany & Co – Paillet
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Verger Frères was widely known as the jeweller’s jeweller. They created some of the most exceptional jewels, clocks and watches of the Art Deco era supplying many of the most famous jewellery houses of the period. In 1872, Ferdinand Verger (1851- 1928) founded his jewellery business in Paris. He had been apprenticed, just aged 11, to the Parisian watchmaker Lépine. After serving in the Franco-Prussian War he travelled to London, returning in 1871. In the early days Verger specialized in ladies’ watches and within a few years had built a reputation that enabled him to become an agent for Vacheron Constantin in 1875. This was to prove a mutually beneficial and enduring relationship which lasted over 60 years with Verger making beautiful cases and jewels set with movements supplied by Vacheron Constantin. Verger registered his maker’s mark in 1896, five years later he acquired the business of his late master Lépine and the firm continued to grow stronger. Verger’s two sons Georges and Henri joined their father in the business and the maker’s mark was changed from F.V. (Ferdinand Verger) to V.F. (Verger Frères). Under the guidance of Georges and Henri the firm reached new heights and not only employed a vast array of craftsmen directly but developed partnerships with some of the most exceptional artisans of the early 20th century. Georges designed the majority of pieces himself however he was also known to have collaborated with other artists and designers of the period. Alongside their creativity the firm was also a leading innovator in technique and they filed various patents over the years. They were one of only two companies to create the legendary ‘Mystery Clocks’, Cartier being the other. Verger formally signed over the business to his sons in 1921 by which time they were employing over two hundred specialist craftsmen including goldsmiths, enamellers, engravers, lapidaries, diamond polishers and watchmakers. By employing these artists directly, rather than contracting out the work, Verger Frères were able to keep tight control of the quality of their work. Consequently, they became renowned for the outstanding quality and consistency of their pieces. The firm remained in the Verger family during the 1940s and 1950s, but eventually, the business was bought by Georges Lenfant and more recently it was acquired by Atelier Bouder who have dedicatedly reconstructed the company’s heritage through the extensive archives of drawings and models. 
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Fernand Paillet (1850-1918), a pupil of Carrier-Belleuse, was a painter of miniatures. His sitters included Edith Wharton, the American novelist of the Belle Epoque. He was the miniature painter for the Parisian jeweller Boucheron and also worked with Tiffany & Co. Watches with dials painted by Paillet are very rare.

Signed: Verger Frères for Tiffany & Co – Paillet

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