Very rare English duplex made for the Chinese market Circa 1810

Gold, enamel and agate set drop shaped hexagonal watch
–
A very fine English 18 Carat gold and enamel, moss agate set duplex pocket watch in museum like quality made for the Chinese market, circa 1810.
A hexagonal drop shaped case with engraved and polychrome enamelled pendant, bow and bezel, set with red agate and moss agate cabochons in gold collets, split pearl set back cover. A domed white enamel dial with radial Roman numerals, center seconds and gold Breguet hands. A lavishly florally engraved gilt bridge movement according to Lépine, key wind, lavishly florally engraved going barrel, duplex escapement, five arm steel balance, fine florally engraved and pierced balance cock, chatoned diamond end stone on balance.
Movement signed.
–
Diameter: 106 x 65 mm
–
Weight: 145 g
–
Signed: Ilbery London
–
This watch is one of the extremely rare, unusually shaped watches set with dendritic agates made for the Chinese market by famous watchmakers like William Ilbery. Their rich decoration and fanciful shapes were intended to appeal to the imaginations and satisfy the exacting tastes of the Chinese elite. The shapes we have seen to the present day are elongated hexagonal, octagonal, hexagonal drop shaped and drop shaped.
–
Moss (dendritic) agate is chalcedony containing visible impurities in the form of dendrite shapes that resemble moss. Pieces with a good ‘moss’ formation are highly regarded. This watch is a wonderful example of the combined talents of the watchmaker, jeweller and lapidary.
–
William Ilbery, circa 1760-1839, was active in London from 1780 in Goswell Street, he moved to Duncan Terrace towards the end of the 18th century. After James Cox in London and Jaquet-Droz in Switzerland, he also specialized in producing luxury watches for the Chinese market. His early production was very much in the English style, featuring a full plate movement and an English type single wheel duplex escapement. However, for his highest quality watches, he incorporated a spring detent escapement. Later, the watch movements he produced were much inspired by the Lépine caliber with a free standing barrel, as were Jaquet-Droz’s Swiss production signed in London and that of William Anthony, who worked in London. The cases of his watches were sumptuously decorated by the best Genevan enamellers, such as Jean-Francois-Victor Dupont, who usually signed his work, and Jean-Louis Richter, who signed rarely. He organized the production in Switzerland, mainly in Fleurier, of profusely engraved movements for the Asian market. He was followed in this by makers such as Bovet and Juvet who also worked in Fleurier (Val de Travers). Ilbery can therefore be considered one of the most representative makers of ‘Chinese’ watches. He seems to have maintained close contacts with the continental trade since a watch signed ‘Ilbery Paris’ is known while Ilbery & Son are recorded in London and Fleurier, as well as in Canton.