Swiss gold and enamel miniature lady’s erotic watch Circa 1775

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Kenmerk
FA0302
Diameter
17 mm
Estimate
€ 50.000 - 120.000
Price sold
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Gold miniature lady’s pendant watch
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An extremely fine and rare gold, rose diamond and painted on enamel early miniature lady’s pendant watch with concealed erotic scenes, for the Chinese market, circa 1775.
Gilt, full-plate movement with cylindrical pillars, fusee with chain, cylinder escapement, pierced foliate continental type balance cock, large index regulator.
Case, chased with flowers and ribbons, the bezel with rose-cut diamonds set in silver, the back decorated with a painted on enamel trophy of a mandolin, doves and a basket of flowers on a pink ground, the enamelled panel opening to reveal two finely painted erotic enamel scenes, one depicting a young couple enjoying bathing, the other depicting a young couple dressed in contemporary costume enjoying an amorous encounter in the countryside.
White enamel dial with radial Roman numerals, outer minute track and Arabic five minute numerals. Gold hands. Movement signed.
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Diameter: 17 mm
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Signed: J. Robert London
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This watch is one of the very few known examples of a miniature watch with concealed erotic scenes, it is also probably the smallest and one of the earliest known examples. Most of the surviving examples of these watches were made by James Cox,. Although the movement is signed “J. Robert, London”, it is certainly made in Geneva. In the late 18th century, London was an important hub for international commerce, and particularly commerce with the Chinese market. The city’s aura was such that pieces marked with the word “London” commanded much higher prices than others. Leschot states this very matter-of-factly in a letter to Louis George in Berlin dated February 13, 1793: ?As for the bird snuff box that you mention, it was no doubt made in our workshop. As I had the honor of informing you several years ago, we always had the name engraved as if they came from England, because of the general opinion that everything that is made in that country is better made, more refined and sturdier than elsewhere, but in fact, they are made in my workshop and if you buy them directly from me you will pay a better price than if you go to someone else. The enamel paintings are to be compared with those on a watch by James Cox. They are likely to be by the same artist and are of a type so beloved by the Chinese market.
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This watch must be one of the smallest to be made in the 18th Century, indeed, even in the 19th Century watchmakers rarely managed to make watches below 16 mm., very few at 14 mm and the smallest ever at 9.02 mm. At 17mm., this watch is possibly unique for the period. This watch is even smaller at 13.55 mm. The making of miniature watches has always been a challenge for watchmakers. Many have vied with each other to produce ever smaller mechanisms enabling them to boast of making “The World’s Smallest Watch”. The earliest known surviving example is a tiny gold and enamel clockwatch by an unknown German maker dating from circa 1610. This remarkable watch had once belonged to Queen Elizabeth of Bohemia (The Winter Queen). Breguet famously made a small number of miniature watches with keyless winding, these watches measuring only 18 mm. were certainly the smallest watches with keyless winding and hand-setting.

Signed: J. Robert London

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