Lady’s open faced lapel watch with matching chatelaine Circa 1890

Unsigned gold and lapis lazuli set lapel watch
–
A gold and lapis lazuli set open faced lady’s lapel watch with matching chatelaine and fitted box, circa 1890. The watch features an unsigned gilt bar cylinder movement with a plain flat balance. The cream enamel dial has Arabic numerals and a gilt pearled outer minute ring. The gold case has a single lapis lazuli centre with an applied monogram H beneath an applied gold coronet and pearl set bezels and is marked with the case maker’s mark SG with a key between and a star below in a diamond shaped cartouche. It also has a partial French gold assay mark for 18k gold, a plain polished gold cuvette, and is numbered 51077. The short chatelaine is chased and engraved with geometric foliate scrollwork, surmounted by a similarly decorated brooch form panel with lapis lazuli heraldic panels set with diamond chip set fleur-de-lys, all beneath a pearl set coronet. Accompaniments include a leather covered box with a suede lined, fitted interior.
–
Length: 110 mm
–
Signed: No name
–
The watch has some minor chipping around the central aperture for the hands and a small scratch near 4 o’clock. The case back is decorated with some indentations that have partially obscured the maker’s mark, possibly due to the application of a coronet to the outside case back. The chatelaine appears to be in good overall condition, with one pearl on the coronet cracked. The hinge and catch on the fitted box are slightly loose. The movement is running.
–
The trend of wearing fob, lapel, and belt watches on chatelaines has persisted in various forms for centuries. While both men and women have used them over the years, women have shown a preference for particularly decorative examples adorned with diamonds, semiprecious stones, or enamel. In this specific case, the decorative waist plaque can be worn on both the lapel or hooked over a belt.