French Art Nouveau quarter repeating full hunter watch Circa 1900

Gold hunting cased keyless lever repeating watch by René Lalique
–
An extremely rare and unusual French Art Nouveau gold hunting cased keyless lever quarter repeating pocket watch, circa 1900. This exquisite watch features pierced covers adorned with pâte de verre decoration. It is powered by a gilded, frosted bar movement with a lever escapement, jewelled to the centre, and equipped with a bimetallic compensation balance. The timepiece includes a repeater mechanism that chimes on coiled gongs. Its white enamel dial displays Roman numerals, an outer Arabic minute track, filigree hands, and a sunken subsidiary seconds dial.
–
The 18 carat gold case showcases intricate craftsmanship: the front and back covers are pierced with trumpet flowers and rhinoceros beetles, accentuated with pâte de verre in graduated tones—yellows, creams, and browns on the front, and browns, greens, yellows, and oranges on the back. The piercing reveals a maroon enamel covered gold cuvette on the reverse. Additional features include a repeating slide on the band, an engraved monogram inside the front cover, and Paris control marks (introduced in 1838) on the covers, pendant, and band. The band is signed Lalique, and the cuvette and back cover are numbered 17120, while the front cover bears the number 20.
–
Diameter: 50 mm
–
Signed: Lalique
–
The movement is running and repeating smoothly. The handset is operational. The dial shows a few small scratches. The case is in good overall condition, with possibly very minor chipping at the tail of the beetle. The covers close securely.
–
A similarly decorated Lalique watch case, also with trumpet flowers and rhinoceros beetles, but with Patek Philippe movement (no. 97 537), can be found at the Patek Philippe Museum (Inv. P-1159). The latter watch is illustrated in P. Friess, Patek Philippe Watches Vol. 1, p. 251. 
–
The Rhinoceros beetle appears to have been a distinct favourite of Rene Lalique, prominently featuring in many of his creations. Lalique watches are exceedingly rare, with only a few known to exist today. This specific piece highlights Lalique’s exceptional skill in metal and enamel craftsmanship.
–
René Jules Lalique (born in Aÿ on April 6, 1860, and died in Paris on May 1, 1945) was a renowned French jeweller and glass artist known for his contributions to Art Nouveau and Art Deco. He created numerous jewellery pieces commissioned by notable individuals, including actress Sarah Bernhardt and his most significant patron, Calouste Gulbenkian.