German decoratively engraved lady’s keyless lever watch Circa 1890

Gold engraved hunting cased pocket watch by J. Assmann
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A German lady’s gold, decoratively engraved, keyless lever full hunter watch, circa 1890. Made for the South American market. This timepiece features a second quality, decoratively engraved nickel ¾ plate movement with a lever escapement. It contains 15 jewels and has a bimetallic compensation balance and a ruby endstone. The watch is signed and numbered J. Assmann, Glashütte, referencing 10425. The silver dial showcases a central design adorned with applied, chased and engraved green and yellow gold flowers and foliage. It includes a chapter ring with Roman numerals, intricately arranged engraved scrolls, an outer minute ring, and a sunken subsidiary seconds dial. The border of the dial is embellished with applied green and yellow gold flowers, fruit, and foliage.
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The case is 18 carat gold and features highly decorative chased and engraved covers. Each cover is centred with a lion rampant atop a pedestal surrounded by scrolling flowers and foliage, with the background heightened using black wax. The pedestal in the front acts as a vacant cartouche, while each side is bordered by a wreath of oak leaves and acorns. The bezels are adorned with geometrically chased and engraved motifs, and the pendant and bow are similarly decorated. A handset lever is located beneath the bezel between the 4 and 5 o’clock positions. The polished gold cuvette is engraved with foliage and is also signed and numbered by J. Assmann, Glashütte, Sachsen. Both the front and back covers are signed J. Assmann, Glashütte, with the cover and cuvette numbered 10425 and the front cover numbered 25. The watch carries both Swiss and German hallmarks.
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Diameter: 39 mm
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Signed: J. Assmann, Glashütte
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The movement isn’t running despite being fully wound, likely due to a sticky balance caused by old oil. The hands set smoothly. The dial has a few minor scuffs and slight flecking on the black Roman numerals. The case shows small marks and scratches, but the decorative details remain well-defined. The covers close securely.
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Julius Assmann joined the Lange firm in 1850. Lange appreciated his support, especially since Schneider had become semi autonomous in 1848. Lange and Assmann collaborated for two years before Assmann established his own manufacturing company, with significant backing from Lange.
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Assmann concentrated on building strong relationships in America, earning a reputation as an elite watchmaker both there and domestically. His efforts opened the South American market to him, leading to the creation of pieces specifically tailored for his clients in that region, exemplified by the present lot.