Swiss gilt lever watch made for the Chinese market Circa 1870

Gilt, enamel and pearl-set lever watch by Vrard & Cie
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A rare Swiss silver-gilt, enamel and pearl-set open faced lever pocket watch made for the Chinese market, circa 1870. Retailed by Hope’s Brothers & Co. Bridge movement, side lever escapement, key-wound, florally engraved, going barrel, screwed compensation balance. White enamel dial with Roman numerals, centre seconds, blued spade hands. Engine-turned case back, covered with translucent blue enamel, the bezels and pendant set with half-pearls, reeded band, polychrome enamel scene depicting a couple with a bird cage, the front lid with inner Chinese signature, glazed dust cover. Case and movement signed.
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Diameter: 39.5 mm
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Weight: 53 g
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Signed: L. Vrard & Co Tientsin
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Hope’s Brothers & Co specialized in selling luxury goods.
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Hantali: The Chinese Hantali mark (“the one who gives receives”) was the trademark of Maison L. Vrard & Cie. Vrard & Cie was one of the finest and most renowned watchmaking companies of its time and specialized in trading on the Chinese market. The company, which was established in 1860 under the name Laidrich & Vrard, began operating out of Tsientsin in 1862 and opened a branch in Shanghai soon after that. The Shanghai office also represented the Bovet brand. Vrard produced relatively simple watches as well as highly complicated and extravagant pieces, some of the high-quality watches had enamel cases made by the most eminent makers of Geneva such as Louis Rosselet, Marc Dufaux, Louis Millenet, Louis Pauthex and P.A. Champod. One of the highlights in Vrard’s collection was a piece created for the Empress Dowager Tzu-Hsi (or Cixi) and gained the company a royal warrant. Vrard’s Chinese Trademark ‘Hantali’ and the company history are illustrated and described in ‘La Montre Chinoise’ by Alfred Chapuis.