Swiss 18K multicolour gold repoussé pocket watch Circa 1886

One of the rarest watches with a relief case
–
A rare pocket watch with relief case made by Patek Philippe in Geneva, Switzerland, circa 1886. Retailed by Jaques & Marcus in New York, U.S.A. The numbered Louis XV repoussé case of this watch is of outstanding quality and was crafted from four colour 18 carat gold. It features a very detailed representation of the Abduction of Europe on the back. The cuvette reads the inscription Mary A. Peck from J.D. Peck Dec 29/90. The decorative original dial has white enamelled cartouches with blue Roman hour numerals, an outer minute track and Louis XV hands. The numbered precision movement is fitted with an exquisite Patek Philippe moustache lever escapement and wolf’s toothing.
The cuvette and movement are signed.
–
Diameter: 33 mm
–
Weight: 45 g
–
Signed: Patek, Philippe & Co Geneva
–
Only one other example of the watch presented here is known, which makes it an extremely rare item. The extract from the archives dated 2023 confirms the originality of the watch.
–
Jaques & Marcus
The American jeweller Marcus & Co was based in New York City and is best known for high quality Art Nouveau and Art Deco pieces.

Herman Marcus was born in Germany in 1828. As a young man, before moving to New York in 1850 at the age of 22, he gained experience at Ellermeyer, court jewellers in Dresden. In Europe, he discovered enamelling techniques which were not common in the U.S. at that time, and this expertise led to his first job in New York, designing for Tiffany & Co. He later represented Tiffany’s at the 1878 Exposition Universelle in Paris.

In 1864, he started his own firm in a partnership with Theodore Starr, forming Starr & Marcus. Though highly successful, the firm was dissolved in 1877. In 1884, Marcus became a partner in the firm Jaques & Marcus, where his son William was already a partner, and in 1892, when Georges Jacques retired, the firm became known as Marcus & Co. By this point, Marcus was already well known and respected by the New York City jewellery community. The firm’s bold use of brightly coloured enamel mixed with precious and semi precious gemstones is unmistakable and represents a confidence in design not usually seen in this period. They also introduced gems rarely used in jewellery at that time, such as zircons, chrysoberyls, spinels and peridots.

Herman Marcus died in 1899 but his sons continued the business well into the 20^th century. The firm’s designs were of high quality and are still among the best examples of American Art Nouveau jewellery. Marcus & Co continued to attract a high profile clientele throughout the 20^th century which included John D. Rockefeller. The firm was sold to Gimbels, the department store in 1941 and then in 1962, it merged with Black, Starr & Frost.