Swiss 18k gold lever watch with enamel portrait Circa 1915

Gold and enamel lever watch by Chronometre Buttes Watch Co.
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A slim Swiss gold keyless watch with an enamel portrait of an Indian gentleman, circa 1915. This watch features a nickel lever movement with 17 jewels and is signed Chronometre Buttes, Suisse. It has a stepped champagne dial, signed Chronometre BWC Suisse, with applied gold Arabic numerals and an outer 24-hour indication. The watch also has gold gothic hands and a subsidiary seconds display. The polished gold case showcases an enamel portrait of Maharaja Lakderji on the back and is numbered.
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Diameter: 45 mm
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Signed: Chronometre BWC Suisse
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The case has general surface scratches and some discolouration on the inside. There is also rubbing on the feather headdress of the maharaja. The dial is discoloured with some spots, particularly at the centre near the signature. The movement is not running, although the balance is free. The watch will require a service.
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The Buttes Watch Co. was established around 1901 by “Henri” Alexandre Jeannin-Rosselet in Buttes Canton Neuchâtel, after working in watchmaking in Fleurier. The brand name BWC was registered in 1905. In 1924, Arthur Charlet took over the company in his birthplace and also had involvement in the company, Charlet Bilat & Co. Edwin Volkart, Charlet’s son-in-law, took over management in 1953, marking a period of significant growth and a focus on chronographs. The company utilised movements from Lemania, Landeron, and Valjoux.

The history of Buttes Watch Co. has been closely linked to the gold and watch town of Pforzheim in Germany since its inception. The company’s initial customer in 1924 was Reinhold Reeck. Initially, the production focus was on pocket watches for the German market, later expanding to other countries in Europe and overseas.

The company recognised the trend for wristwatches early on and began producing them in 1930, mainly using the calibres FEF-Peseux and FHF. A new era began in 1938 with the use of the AS 1130 calibre, which gained a high-quality reputation during World War II. This movement was later replaced by the UT 6380 calibre.

In 1938, the production of bracelet chronographs began using the Venus 170 calibre, later replaced by the Hahn-Landeron 48 calibre. From 1946 to 1960, the BWC brand launched the Valjoux 23 and 72 chronograph calibres, solidifying its position as one of the most important Swiss chronograph manufacturers.

The DXC 89 chronograph, produced from 1949 onwards, is now highly valued among collectors, despite being originally designed for women.