Thin French 18K yellow gold keyless dress watch Circa 1920

Gold open faced lever pocket watch
–
A very fine and elegant French 18 carat yellow gold open faced keyless dress watch made by Cartier in Paris, circa 1920. The watch has a gold knife edged case that is extra thin and has a slim profile. There is a monogram engraved on the back, which was added after the watch was made. The inside of the case back is numbered, hallmarked EJ and marked with an eagle’s head. The bezel also has numbers on the inside. The silvered dial features painted Roman hour numerals, railway minute markers and blued steel Breguet hands. It is signed Cartier Paris. The watch has a mechanical movement with an anker escapement, 19 jewels, Geneva striping decoration, a bimetallic balance, eight adjustments and a Breguet spiral. It is signed Cartier Paris, numbered and comes with the original presentation box. The glass dome needs to be reattached.
–
Thickness: 4 mm
–
Diameter: 47 mm
–
Weight: 47 g
–
Signed: Cartier Paris
–
Hélène Worth received this watch as a gift for her son Stéphane’s communion in the 1940s.
–
Suzanne Worth was the youngest sibling from the three famous Cartier brothers.

Cartier jewellery began to make its mark thanks to a generation led by Louis in Paris, Jacques in London and Pierre, who opened the New York branch. Suzanne, their younger sister, married into the family of the renowned couturier Worth. She was 22 when she married Jacques Worth. Her wedding witnesses included her brother Louis, who was married to Andrée-Caroline Worth (the groom’s cousin) and her brother-in-law Jacques Lemoine, who was married to René Worth, the groom’s sister.

Strong connections between creative entrepreneurs and skilled artisans helped shape the luxury industry. At that time, the House of Worth was even more prominent than Cartier. Although Suzanne, now Mrs Worth, did not join the main Cartier business, her story remains part of the family’s legacy. In the accompanying photo, you can see a full length portrait of her daughter, Hélène Worth, elegantly dressed for her debutante ball, marking her entry into the café society of the era.

Francesca Brickell’s Cartier book shares family details, confirmed by their descendants.